The Sunday Times: Issue #5

This week's issue looks a little different as it's more of a video watching experience than a reading one. I recorded a lengthy (15 mins) introduction to the stones for Paradiso on IG stories this week, but, realizing that many of you do not use IG, I also wanted to share that video with you here. Before I get into that, I'll share a little bit about why I choose the stones I do for each collection.

So pour yourself a cup of tea and get comfy.

“Money is congealed energy, and releasing it releases life’s possibilities.”

- Joseph Campbell

THE STONES FOR PARADISO

A DEEP DIVE

Why does it matter where a jewelry company sources its stones? Personally, I think it matters where every dollar spent by any company goes.

If you think of money as energy and agency, when a customer gives a business money because they believe in the product and want to see that company thrive, the customer is essentially giving that business energy. I likewise spend the money I'm given with the companies I believe in and would like to see thrive. I think about everything from the paper in the packaging to the stones and gold and choose the companies whose products and missions I love and want to see flourish.

The bulk of the money required to make jewelry is spent on gemstones, therefore most of my time and research goes into those selections. My annual buying trip to Tucson is special because that's when I get to actually meet the dealers who supply my material. I get to ask them questions and inquire into their practices to make sure we align in values. Luckily for me, The Ethical Gem Fair was started in 2020 and has made that vetting process a lot easier for me and likeminded jewelers.

In this video, I go through every single stone that I plan to include in the Paradiso collection. I tell you where the stone was mined, what company sold it to me, and in some cases, who mined it and/or who cut it.

If we step back from ethics for a moment and consider only aesthetics, there are other criteria I like to keep in mind. Obviously color is top of mind as I reference that season's moodboard and try to recreate that vibe in stone form. Another thing I like to keep in mind is stone hardness for wearability. I love to source sapphires because they are the hardest gemstone next to diamonds and are great for daily wear. When considering a colored stone for an engagement ring, for example, a sapphire is a great choice. I love sapphires that have something called "opalescence," a milky shimmer caused by microscopic inclusions. Inclusions of any kind used to be considered a flaw, but now as consumers are embracing the many characteristics of stones that make them unique, opalescence is seen as a glowing positive.

I also like to source unique cuts in a variety of sizes. Most of the artisanal cutters referenced in this video can cut a stone according to the shape of the rough they receive, in order to maximize the yield. Conversely, in factory cutting rooms, they are often directed to cut only calibrated ovals and rounds or other basic shapes, leaving a lot of the rough unused. Having latitude in cutting makes for much more interesting shapes and is the most efficient way to make the most out of what Mother Nature provides. Artisanal cutters also really take into account the color and structure of the stone in order to end up with a cut gem that best displays its beauty. Gem cutting is truly an art form.

Sourcing all different shapes and sizes of stones also means that every ring has to be made as a one-of-a-kind design because it is unlikely that a setting for one stone will fit the unique shape of any other. This requires a lot more work on my part but I think it's worth it in order to end up with a collection that really highlights the diversity of talent in the gem world.

The third thing I look for when hunting for gems isn't necessarily a criteria as much as it's just a feeling. Maybe I can't pinpoint it to color or cut, but it's a vibe. Maybe I've never seen anything like it before, or maybe it just has a really nice energy when I'm holding it. Many times, these are stones that I don't purchase for the immediate collection I'm working on, but are stones like the yellow ochre tourmaline pear in this video that I buy and then keep in my inventory for a year or more. Then suddenly it makes perfect sense in a collection in the future. It's like it knows before I know.